We arrived in Takoradi and decided to head down to Cape Coast to visit the Castles and Dungeons. A group of 8, including myself, walked nearly a mile to the main gate of the port and caught a taxi to the passenger van station. Our drive across town clearly showed the poverty and despair of those living in the area. Locals selling everything from fabric and hand made jewelry to paintings and wooden masks crowded the streets and created a market in the center of town and on the side walks. At the station we paid for a ticket on a passenger van then had to wait until it was full for it to leave. Luckily our group was 8 people strong because each van holds 15 people, sometimes more with small children and babies. We waited probably 20 minutes in the van, wiping sweat from our brow, and rejecting locals trying to sell us bread, water, eggs, phone cards, watches, etc. Once on the road we traveled an hour and a half only to catch a taxi to the El Mina Castle and Slave Dungeons.
The first thing I noticed was the view. Gorgeous, clear blue skies with waves crashing on shore, children playing in the water and a vibrant town just steps away. Then we entered. Tall white walls with decay and cracks made history come alive. Our tour guide gave a powerful and insightful presentation mentioning that the castle was 540 years old. In each dungeon, over 150 slaves were held. The dungeons measured approximately 20’ wide x 40’ long and the walls 50’ tall. Our guide decoded phrases on the walls and took us around to each section, outlining the significance and importance of it all. We saw male dungeons, female dungeons, the holding cells, the shackles and the point of no return. We took pictures and videos but the true magnitude cannot be shared in words and pictures, it is definitely an awe-inspiring sight to see. The same atmosphere that I described earlier with the clear blue skies and fresh breeze; slaves didn’t experience at all. They saw white walls, feces, and smelled stench every moment of every day. The dungeons with a window only supplied a view of the tall white wall from another nearby dungeon. After the tour we took pictures, looked around in the gift shop and made our way back to the taxi.
After leaving El Mina we took our taxi to Cape Coast Castle and Slave Dungeon. This was a larger facility with an expansive courtyard area and cannon platform. The view was stunning…the place, however, was somber. Once again, the dungeons were dark and stoic. There was a line of demarcation indicating where feces once were (approximately 2-3 feet tall). Thinking about the mistreatment of slaves while standing in the exact spot where it took place was complex…so many thoughts went racing through my mind: what did the slaves think, did they have hope of being freed, did they ever imagine that one day this place would be a sight of remembrance, did they consider life after slavery? We then visited the small exhibit outlining more historical facts and artifacts. After taking more pictures and soaking it all up, we headed out.
Children and adults swarmed us as we exited, trying to get us to purchase their goods. A group of children captured my heart by simply wanting to show me how they can do flips, jumps, and leaps. These kids truly were gymnasts! I videoed them as they performed and bought them their favorite snack at the restaurant nearby afterwards. The way I see it, I was supporting the local restaurant and feeding the children’s belly’s at the same time. After some shopping we took a taxi back to the passenger van station and then headed back to Takoradi.
The road we traveled was consumed by people. Men, women, children, and babies of the villages along side the road hustle to make money. There are random check points where the police check each car ensuring that they are not overloaded. It is at these stops that the locals take over and do what they do best, sell goods. They will reach in and offer whatever they are selling that day. Some people purchase items and the exchange of money/item happens so quickly that if you are not paying attention, you might miss it. From the van station we took another taxi back to our port and stayed in for the night because we knew that we had a journey ahead of us in the morning if we were to travel to Accra.
Overall, it was a great Day, with great memories! I am proud of history. It paints a picture and tells the story of progress. We have come a long way!
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